The Return of The Puffer
Written by Maddy Cronn
Graphics by Jasmine Flora
We all know fashion finds its way back around through the years whether it be a hint of the low rise jean or the spotting of a classic 90s’ sweater vest look on today's streets. With decades of fashion going back and forth and in and out of relevancy, one item we can't seem to shake no matter how hard trends lurch is the persistent and pervasive puffer coat. I'm not sure whether to be impressed by its absolute hold on society since its creation or a little scared, since unlike every other trend or look it doesn't seem to be going anywhere anytime soon.
Eddie Bower first invented the coat in 1936 originally dubbed “The Skyliner” out of his slight need to avoid hyperthermia and the rest is history… literally. In every major decade of fashion since the thirties, the puffer has reappeared in its varied forms heating the fashionable and practical on a cold night.
Its elegance in high fashion through the ’30s, quirkiness in the 70s, sportiness fit for streetwear in the ’80s, and a 90’s staple piece, the puffer coat has never lost its’ special something.
So, essentially, the puffer coat has never fully dissipated within the fashion pool, and every time I spot a puffer coat in Target or on the runway I have to wonder, what is this special something that keeps us coming back?
For the last 20 years, even as the puffer has peeked through the folds of fashion's current landscape primarily through sportswear brands and fast fashion superstores, the coat has been suppressed to background noise. This year though, I smell its’ comeback.
I'm bringing the iconic puffer to your collective attention especially now, as the coat is having a revival on the runway! This time, with some interesting 2021 twists on the classic design.
Pictured on The New York Times fashion Instagram, the new Marc Jacobs collection that premiered in June totally reimagined the puffer's possibilities and it was exhilarating. In an almost surreal way, the collection explores new puffer formations where the jacket's padding is molded like clay to form with the model or extend the form in a cape-like draping. In my favorite look, a puffer element can be seen lining the model's skirt through a slit. While the puffer is a longstanding and vintage style, Marc Jacobs has revitalized and futurized the stuffing technique through this collection.
The puffer jacket has had many moments throughout fashion history and now is the perfect time to watch it develop once again as the futurization of the style is fresh on the minds of this decade's creatives, established as well as up-and coming.
To see how rising creatives are leading the puffers' comeback, I prowled Instagram and came upon the dreamlike work of Luke Neil, a current student at the London College of Fashion. I was struck by the unearthly and simultaneously very real/ punk feel to their work using plaids, flashes of color, and eminently striking puffer formations.
For young creatives like Neil, the puffer is an expressive and striking canvas for their vision. Neil describes his inspirations as an “excitement and interest around punk fashion and grunge aesthetics mixed with rave culture and the underground rave scene. Punk to me is a powerful and impactful feeling that I want people to feel when they see my work.” Neil adds, “The impact that the NYC Club Kids also had on the shift in gender stereotypes throughout the 1990s is another huge inspiration of mine that I try to channel into my gender-neutral work!”
I still wondered, with Neil’s vision and the powerful feelings he hopes can be derived from his work, why choose the puffer? In response, Neil shed some light on what they feel the puffers’ special something is to them: “I am absolutely in love with the shape and silhouettes you can create with this technique and the vibe it gives off is super powerful. I am a strong believer of entering a room and making a statement so I try to focus my work on the thought of an outfit with a lot of volume catching people's eye and sparking a conversation.”
I finally asked for Neil’s take on the coat's new life over the past year and they noted that the puffer's rule book has been chucked out just in time for this coat's new era. “Puffer jackets are obviously one of the most bought winter jackets but I only really saw puffer work in jacket form…over recent years I’ve seen a lot of different brands and artists experimenting with puffer shapes and sizes and having a lot more fun without sticking to the rules…I guess everyone is wanting to make a statement and be the centre of attention and puffer is definitely the way to do it!”
Now, if you're still wondering, why are people STILL wearing puffer coats after nearly 100 years of being adorned in fluff? Unlike the usual lifespan of a style, time only strengthens the puffer instead of deteriorating it. With each trend wave, exemplified by the work of designers both established and emerging, the puffer’s stuffed and stitched pockets mold to the imaginations of the decade forever allowing it to be cutting edge. Also, everyone loves a little volume.
So, moral of the story is: keep an eye out for the puffer, you never know where it's going.